Monday, September 19, 2011

Santiago y Fiestas Patrias

La Moneda--home of President Piñera
Hola! It’s been an exciting week for me here in Chile. Last Monday morning we loaded a bus and headed to Santiago to explore Chile’s capitol. It was a great, action-packed trip. We were able to see all the city’s most important buildings, plazas and natural attractions, including a visit to La Moneda--Chile’s equivalent of the White House.  The president was even in the house while we touring, which I found exciting, but when I told my host mom she felt bad that I had to be that close to him (he is not very popular here, especially among my family).  Although the tours were fascinating, there is also something to be said for exploring the lesser-known parts of the city with people who live there.  Luckily, a few of us had connections with other students living in Santiago so we were able to enjoy the city with them at night.  One night, not only did we see Michael Cera AGAIN, we also decided on a whim to stop at a crepe shoppe only to be served by a girl from Shoreview, MN who happened to go to high school with one of the girls on our trip.  Coincidences like that never cease to amaze me.  Later, in the middle of the night, there was a small earthquake that did no damage but got everyone talking.  My host mom called me the next morning to make sure that the old rickety hostel we were staying in had held up.  Unfortunately, or probably fortunately, I was fast asleep and somehow didn’t even wake up.  I feel like I missed out! 
View of Santiago from Cerro San Cristoból
We returned home on Wednesday night just in time to start celebrating Fiestas Patrias. My host mom took us out to a typical Chilean restaurant down the block and ordered me Chorillana, one of Chile’s delicacies—a mountain of French fries topped with beef, hot dogs, fried onion and fried eggs.  Blocking out any thoughts about its effects on my arteries, I found that it was a surprisingly delicious combination.  And I wasn’t the only one. My host sister, who is on a “diet” refusing to eat any bread or sweets, had no problem scarfing down a big ol’ plate of Chorillana, with a diet coke of course. Something I have noticed, that might be a little more pronounced in my family, is that Chileans can be very blunt and harsh about things without feeling like they are being rude. To give an example, throughout the night at restaurant my host sister and mom had at least a 3 minute conversation about how fat the woman sitting at the table next to us was.  And then a few minutes later, went on about how ugly their friend’s son is.  Soon after, the conversation changed to how foolish their acquaintance is because he has depression.  And finally, how my mom would never want to host an Asian (or an amarillo as she called them for their “yellow skin”) because they’re all dirty and smell bad.  Now this makes them sound like they are really awful people, and they really aren’t.  They are both nice and caring and generous. I think they just have different standards about what is acceptable to say about someone.  They honestly think that these things are fact, so they don’t feel bad saying them.  But anyways…back to Fiestas Patrias.
A friendly game of tug of war at the asado
 
From then on forward, the rest of the weekend was filled with food and celebration. In class on Thursday, our art history teacher took the entire period just to tell us what food and drinks to buy at the Ramadas (a big carnival for Fiestas Patrias filled with rides, games, and vendors of everything imaginable) and teach us how to dance Cueca, the typical Chilean dance.  Sunday the 18th, like our July 4th, was the big day.  My host family and I spent the day with family and friends at two different asados, followed by an after party with my host sister.  It was so cool to participate in this day so filled with Chilean tradition and culture and to meet so many people.  After over twelve straight hours of eating, drinking, games, talking and dancing, the night finally came to an end. What a weekend!
Embracing my inner Chilena

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Chile en Septiembre

The view of Viña from Reñaca on a hot September day
 
Hola a todos! I can’t believe it’s already September.  It seems that the season here has changed from winter to summer overnight.  Instead of bundling up in 2 coats, a scarf and a hat, I can walk outside in a t-shirt and jeans and be sweating.  You can probably guess that I am welcoming this change with open arms.  September is a very important month for Chileans.  September 11th 1973, marks the military overthrow and death of Salvador Allende.  It’s really interesting to hear the varying opinions of different Chileans I meet regarding this still-sore subject.  I was also surprised to hear my host mom and her friends talk about September 11th, 2001.  Like most Americans, they all remembered exactly where they were, what they were doing and how they felt when they heard the news of the Twin Towers.  However, September does have an upside for Chileans.  Fiestas Patrias—Chilean independence day is coming up on the 18th.  Ever since my first week here, it became obvious to me that Chileans love love love celebrating this day.  I am looking forward to a weekend full of family, friends, asados and pisco :)
Sam's mom made her a big, chilean, delicious birthday lunch
With 3 21st birthdays in our group in a span of 5 days, it goes with out saying that we’ve had a very festive past week.  But besides celebrating cumpleaños, my week was filled with other adventures as well.  Last Friday a group of us decided to take an excursion to some sand dunes about 15 minutes away from Viña.  It wasn’t exactly the best planned trip, so after much confusion, disorientation and uphill hiking we finally arrived.  So worth it.  The view of the ocean from the top of the dunes was breathtaking.  Pictures don’t even do it justice. 
The glorious view from the sand dunes, ConCon, Chile
Moai outside of Museo Fonck
Another interesting highlight was a trip to Museo Fonck—a museum dedicated to the indigenous cultures of Easter Island, Peru and Chile.  Our art history professor, Jorge, toured us through it and proved to me that he literally knows everything there is to know about any indigenous culture in the area off the top of his head. It had tons of fascinating ancient artifacts, and it’s even home to an original Moai (Easter Island head).  
As part of our St. Ben’s program, we are required to perform a certain amount of volunteer hours at organizations throughout the city.  I am working at Sanitorio Marítimo, which is a live-in hospital for children and young adults with severe brain disabilities.  It is a rarity to find a patient that can walk, much less talk. Most of the patients have lived there the majority of their lives and were taken from their homes due to neglect, abuse or an inability of their families to deal with their conditions.  There is no other place like it in all of Chile and there is constantly a waiting list of people to be admitted.  Needless to say, it is heavy and it is sad.  Although it was my decision to volunteer at this organization, I was still a little nervous what it would be like because it is so out of my comfort zone. But, I had my first actual volunteer session this week and it went really well.  The people that work there are all saints and I feel really good about creating companionship with this people that have been forgotten or ignored by society.  I look forward to getting to know the patients better throughout the rest of the semester.
Our group leaves tomorrow for a 3 day excursion to the capital, Santiago.  We will return just in time to start celebrating Chile’s independence :)  Besitos and abrazos a todos! Adios! 

Thursday, September 1, 2011

Actividades Recentes

iSaludos! After almost 3 weeks, I’m finally starting to feel at home here in Viña.  I’m getting used to the food, the customs, and above all, the language.  Chileans are the first to tell you that they speak “dirty” Spanish.  In other words, they use tons of Chilean slang and speak extremely fast—extremely.  I would be lying if I didn’t admit that my first few days here consisted of a lot of smiling and nodding and laughing at the right times to feign comprehension.  Within the past few weeks, though, my ability to understand has increased immensely and I feel way more comfortable listening and conversing.   That being said, there are still plenty of “lost in translation” moments.  For example, the other day I thought my mom was telling me that the creepy, tattooed guard at our apartment complex was also a priest.  Needless to say, that is not the case…. complete misunderstanding on my part. But for the most part, my Spanish is good! J Anyways, here are a few notable events/highlights of the past week or so:

Last Wednesday and Thursday there was a national strike.  So, in addition to the hundreds of thousands of teachers and students that have been on strike for the past few months demanding education reform, there were also tens of thousands of unionized Chilean workers on strike demanding all sorts of government changes.  It got super violent in some cities and there was even a death in Santiago—very sad.  Viña, however, is a really calm city so I personally didn’t really see any protesting.  And I was honestly kind of disappointed, as long as I’m here in the middle of the huge historical revolution I might as well witness a little of the action, right? Oh well, I’ve still got time.  A lot of people are starting to get scared that this is going to be another Allende/Pinochet disaster.  It will be interesting to see what happens!

Yesterday we took a class trip to Valparaíso—one of the most important port cities in South America.  It was an absolutely beautiful day and it was fascinating to learn about the history of the city.  We got to ride on a boat throughout the port, learn about the historic parts of the city, ride an outdoor elevator up one of the 42 hills that the city is built on, and tour Pablo Neruda’s house.  

One of many ascensores in Valparaíso
Port in Valparaíso

I attempted to cook some classic MN wild-rice soup for my family.  I brought the wild rice from home, but it was a struggle to find all the necessary ingredients in the supermercado and even harder make it in the tiny kitchen without any thing slightly resembling a measuring tool.  When I asked my host sister if they had anything to measure with, she looked at me like I was crazy and said “Uhhh….we use our eyes.”  I never realized how much of a luxury my half-teaspoon measurer was.  Suprisingly, though, they loved it! Or they at least pretended like they did.  They both had seconds and raved about how rich and delicious it was.  They wanted me to make it again, and suggested I look for wild rice in the “American” section of the grocery store…something tells me that won’t work. 




Last weekend, some friends of ours from the university here decided to take me and a few other friends on a trip to Reñaca, a neighboring town.  After showing us around, we went back to their apartment, made a big dinner and then invited people over for a Chilean style party.  It is really really great to be making Chilean friends and to be completely immersed in the lifestyle, however we’re all still getting used to their way of partying.  In Minnesota, the bars close at 2 am.  In Chile, that’s when they open.  5 am is a completely normal and reasonable time to return from a night out. When I come home at 2 on a weekend my host mom is surprised at what an early night I had.  I’ll get used to it eventually, but, like everything, it’ll  take some time.  

I am always excited for the next adventures to come!  Happy labor day weekend J